2022 Costador Terroirs Mediterranis Catalunya Metamorphika Sumoll Blanc

Costador Terroirs Mediterranis' "Metamorphika" Sumoll Blanc Brisat is a distinctive orange wine from Catalonia's Tarragona region. Crafted from the rare Sumoll Blanc grape, native to this area, the wine reflects the winery's commitment to organic and biodynamic practices. The 2022 vintage showcases the unique character of 70- to 80-year-old vines planted in stony white clay-calcareous soils. Hand-harvested between mid and late September, the grapes undergo a 12-week maceration, followed by spontaneous fermentation in clay amphorae using indigenous yeasts. The wine matures on its lees for about three months with regular stirring, resulting in a complex and expressive profile.

Nose: Wild honey and dried apricots mingle with unexpected notes of chamomile tea and orange marmalade. There's a fascinating herbal complexity—think sun-warmed thyme and crushed fennel seed. The amphora aging adds subtle earthiness, like walking through a Mediterranean garden after rain. As it opens, delicate floral notes emerge alongside a whisper of salted almonds.

Palate:Textural and thought-provoking with a gentle tannic grip from extended skin contact. Dried peach and preserved lemon flavors wash across your palate, followed by an intriguing bitter orange peel note. The natural winemaking shines through in its unfiltered rawness—slightly cloudy with vibrant acidity cutting through its rich mouthfeel. Beneath the fruit lies an earthy minerality reminiscent of wet stones and clay.

Finish: Long and contemplative, evolving from fruit to savory elements. A pleasant phenolic bitterness lingers, balanced by subtle oxidative notes of bruised apple and walnut. The finish reveals surprising salinity that makes your mouth water long after swallowing. This wine keeps unfolding in waves, with each sip revealing new dimensions of this ancient grape's unique character.

This complex orange wine calls for equally bold flavors—try it with Moroccan tagine or Spanish chorizo with smoked paprika. It stands up beautifully to umami-rich dishes like miso-glazed eggplant or mushroom risotto. The skin contact provides enough structure to complement medium-aged cheeses, particularly Manchego or Garrotxa from its Catalan homeland. For something unexpected, pair with butternut squash ravioli in brown butter sage sauce, where the wine's oxidative notes create surprising harmony.