Moritz Kissinger "0 Ohm" White

The "0 Ohm" wines are what could be called the "estate wines," a red and a white that, as their "0 Ohm" name implies, ripple with energy and bounce. An "Ohm," if you've forgotten from your high school science class (as I had), is a measure of electrical resistance. In the case of both the red and the white, there is no resistance to this energy, this current. The white is a 50/50 blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay with a few days of maceration. The wine is saline, with waxy citrus fruit, lemon pith and herbs. This is not an "orange wine;" it is finer and has more definition and clarity than that suggests. To me, one would have to look perhaps to the Jura to contextualize this wine.

The "0 Ohm" red is wild: it is dark and meaty, almost inky in color, yet the palate is nervy and fresh, mineral-laden and bright. This is a staining red wine, under screw cap, with only about 11.5% alcohol. Precedents here in Germany are nearly impossible to reference as this is a curious blend of Merlot and Dornfelder. For comparisons, I'd have to take you to the Loire - the bottle shares something similar with the fresher, zippier bottlings of Cabernet Franc, though the savory, meaty and sinewy quality of the wine also suggests something of a more playful Northern Rhône, if that existed... which it does not.

Of course, none of this is exactly right; the wines are more than all this - but words, as always, come up short. The only way to really experience these wines is... well, to experience them. We strongly recommend you do.